Last month, we ran a survey asking how many of you are still using inner tubes versus tires mounted tubeless (UST or sealants). It appears that many of you still rely on tried-and-trued inner tubes, so we figured it would be best to do a brief tech article on proper use and application. We like brevity, so let's roll out the tips in bullet-points:
Tip One: The vast majority of tubes on the market are made from Butyl or Latex rubber. Butyl tubes are made with petrochemicals and Latex tubes use natural plant-based materials. In some cases, Latex tubes can be lighter, but their durability and air retention have always been suspect. Kenda's Super Lite butyl tubes are every bit as light as a Latex tube and don't suffer any of these pitfalls. They are an excellent blend of lightweight and durability - we say stick with butyl tubes.
Tip Two: Choose the proper size tube for the size tire you are running. Tubes are available with inflation size ranges, so shops are able to stock fewer tubes to meet a wider variety of tire sizes. The nomenclature of this inflation range will appear on the tube box and can be read as such: 26x1.9-2.125" (for MTB use) or 700x18-23c (for road use) - these are just two examples. The Main thing to note here is that if you are riding a 2.35" tire, choose a tube that will meet the tire's volume like a volume range of 2.20-2.40".
Tip Three: Putting a small tube in a bigger tire usually leads to problems. The tube has to "over-inflate" and stretch to meet the volume of the tire. When the rubber stretches, it becomes thinner and more susceptible to pinch-flatting, rupturing, puncturing or bursting during inflation. This being said, there will be riders that want to push the limits and try and run a small volume tube in a bigger tire in hopes to save weight. It can be done, but it is the improper application. You can't say we didn't warn you.....
Tip Four: Use the proper weight tube for your application. Downhill riders are always trying to save weight on their rigs, but unless your a World Cup pro, running lightweight tubes isn't advisable. Kenda has advanced our tire technology by leaps and bounds since the mountain bike was first invented. We have many features built into all of our tires to squeeze every bit of performance out of them we can. One thing we strive for is the up most durability with least amount of weight. But the one thing we cannot overcome is improper application and tubes can and will fail when stretched beyond their limits. See the next point about choosing the right weight tube.
Tip Five: Tube weights - here's a brief overview of our various tube offerings. Please consult the chart below for a comparison in terms of wall thickness - choose wisely:
Super Lite - Ideal for cross-country and road applications where weight savings is key.- Downhill - Ideal for extreme duty use. Best in DH race bikes and Freeride bikes where durability is key.
- Heavy-Duty XC - Great tube weight for riders looking to split the difference between downhill durability and cross-country weight savings.
- Standard - Best for general riding combines the best attributes of durability and weight. Not the lightest, not the heaviest tube we offer but just right in the middle.
Tip Seven: Choose the right stem. Roadies this applies to you as well as the mountain bikers! Kenda offers you road riders many different valves for your rim profiles - 32mm, 48mm, 60mm and in some cases 80mm long presta stems are available on our tubes. Having the correct length stem allows you to avoid using valve extenders which can leak and are a band-aid fix at best. Mountain bikers be sure your using the correct stem that your rims are drilled for. A presta valve can certainly fit in a schrader drilled rim, but it's not the best application. The smaller presta valve can work back and forth in the larger drilled hole and cause the stem to fail. If you want to use presta valves on schrader drilled rims, get an adaptor to take up the extra space - your local bike shop can help. Many riders ask if they should use the presta nut on their rims - we say yes. It helps keep the valve stable and the nut also helps hold the valve in place during flat changes. It's worth the 3 grams in weight and the 3 seconds in repair time it adds to the process for the assurance.
These are the main tips, there are hundreds others. Do an Internet search and we're sure you'll find numerous suggestions from the cycling community. Next post, we'll talk about mounting tips and tricks to help you in servicing your bike.
Thanks for reading,
The Kenda Team
